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Page 1 Leave nothing...
Page 2 The RCI Bulletin California Dreaming
The Algarve's far south west corner is one of the least explored areas of Portugal photographer CHRIS PARKER joins editor STUART GALLACHER for a majestic photo tour… "Head to the end of the western Algarve and you'll capture some of the best panoramas in Portugal," Carlos, our 'man in the inside' said. Having spend a lazy week soaking up the early spring sun at Clube Praia Da Oura - we decided the time was right to spread our wings and experience a different side of the Algarve. My photographer Chris was itching for the perfect day…you know what I mean-those picture-postcard blue skies and the occasional fluffy white clouds! But it wasn't to be .Can you believe it-the day we have chosen for our foray to the beaches of the far west was disappointingly overcast. "It doesn't rain very often here," Carlos told us.(and apparently the day we had chosen was the only wet day in the whole of February at CPO!) But no sooner had we departed, weighed down with tripods and other camera gear, heading west along the I-125 coast road towards Cape St Vincent than the heavens opened and it bucketed down like it just shouldn't do in Portugal. We passed through the outskirts of Portimao, apparently once a fishing village, now a sprawling metropolis, then Lagos, a more endearing coastal town famed for its glittering array of yachts and its marina. Yes-we'd all love one of those million pound boats! Lagos has style in abundance-designer boutiques, al fresco dining, chic boats…not quite Peurto Banus or Vilamoura, but perhaps one day… From there, the scenery improved as we nosed away from the coast road towards Silves, once the capital of the Algarve during the Arab occupation until the 16th century. Silves is what most people imagine a Moorish town to be: lots of little houses perched on the hillside. We parked below the 13th century castle and climber the parapets to get a reasonable view of the town and surrounding countryside below. It was a peaceful scene of white houses, flower pots and green pastures beyond. Miraculously, the sun chose this moment to appear-and Chris darted off to the car boot for his camera gear. His camera flashed, my ice cream melted and we decided to linger here for 10 minutes or so to capture the ever-changing mood of the elements. From Silves we debated whether to return to the coast road, but, as the weather improved, we decided to climb the famous hill route through forests of chestnuts, cork oak, pine and eucalyptus to Caldas de Monchique, languishing impressively above the coast. "Don't look down," said Chris. And I did just that as the whole of western Portugal, with its picture-postcard villages surveyed from on high, came into it's own. You simply must come up here. So many visitors to CPO miss out on a real treat and it's but an hour away! Caldas is one of those 'tourist must do's' nestling in the woods, famous for its rustic O Tasco café bar, wine bar and local sausage served fresh from an outdoor kiln on a tasty bread roll. The thermal waters, supposedly good for rheumatism and stomach problems, were apparently used by the Romans and Arabs. There's not really to detain the tourists, but it makes a worthwhile stop for a drink nevertheless. From Caldas we travelled onto the surprisingly busy town of Monchique, six kilometres further up, passing quite spectacular scenery. The roads became even steeper and curvier, and not, as we discovered, conducive to 'adventurous' driving (or overtaking.) But it didn't stop the locals tearing up and down as if they were auditioning for the Grand Prix. On the way up we spotted one or two little restaurants and roadside vendors selling apples, oranges and grapes-and quiet spots for picnics off-the-beaten track. The road is not the best but it worth venturing up on anticipation of great views on a clear day. While you are in Monchique don't miss the trip to Foia, the highest point in the Algarve, which, at more than 900 metres, offers spectacular views of the Algarve. We enjoyed a wine-tasting session -with a glass of porto aperitivo and vinho do porto (although Chris, being a wine buff, could easily have downed the entire bottle…) Lunch beckoned, and Sol Da Serra, our chosen stop in Marmelete, a little-known eaterie on the road to Aljezur, served with a delightful cabbage soup, as good as the best soups we had tested during our week on the Algarve, followed by hot and spicy chicken piri piri. From there, we headed west to the coast, home to some often deserted but magnificent beaches that could rival the best of the Caribbean It was our first trip here-and, mama mia, it was magnificent! The landscape is greener and less barren here (with an almost Alpine or Canadian feel). Beach after beach would woo us with magnificent coastal scenery. On this warm March afternoon there was not a single person around to interrupt the serenity and grandeur of the scene. Chris was like a kid in a candy store, darting along the strand in hot pursuit of the very best panoramic shot. (The best accompany this article and I'm sure you'll agree that they were worth waiting for…) At barrages we discovered some of the finest sand dunes anywhere on the Atlantic fringes. The tide was out, and the view down a long wide beach was awesome, against a backdrop of a crimson sky…imagine the expanses of Weston-super-Mare, only better! More white powdery beaches beckoned at Monte Clerigo, Popa, Fonte Santa and Atalia, and a cliff-top Arrifana, we watched fishermen at work-it reminded me of Crail or one of those nice Five villages, lost in time-a world away from Albufeira and the south coast Algarve resorts. The bad, narrow roads through the Espinhaco de Cao have improved since I was last here. Most have recently been tarmac -with an infusion of European Community funds, we wondered? Perhaps the remoteness, coupled with those perishing western Algarvian seas, have discouraged too much development-thankfully retaining its relatively undiscovered feel. The highlight of our trip was Cape St Vincent, and there was an air of eager anticipation as we battled the winds to the Cape. This was the spot chosen by Henry the Navigator to build the first school for navigators. The approach road welcomed us with a colourful array of street vendors selling T-shirts and typical Portuguese souvenirs-for us this was a distraction but, all the same, an ideal place to find a memento to take home. But nevertheless, a detour to the Cape is worthwhile, if only to take the obligatory snap for your album-and contemplate the fine view at 'the end of Europe'. March is perhaps a better time to experience this rugged Wilderness-the mad rush of coaches that overpower this spot in mid summer have yet to descend, and the only locals you are likely to see will be a couple of lone fishermen perched perilously on the cliffs eking out a good catch to sell to local markets. Cape St Vincent was a stunning climax to our foray around the lesser-known Algarve, if only to catch the bracing see air and gaze out into the Atlantic. All too soon it was time to head back to CPO. Chris had used 10 rolls of film, I'd caught the sun on my cheeks (between raindrops) and we felt we'd finally seen the REAL Algarve, beyond the nice beach resorts of the south coast. So next time you want a break from the sun lounger and pool, consider hiring a car and taking to the wide open roads of the west. You'll capture plenty of dramatic scenes on your camera-and you'll be justly rewarded with an insight into true Algarvian history and culture.
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